In the case where your dog only barks at other dogs, it is probably because your dog is not getting enough social time. Remember, dogs are social animals as evidenced by the pack structure. However, since your dog is barking at other dogs, we need to determine whether it is lack of socialization, or a protective instinct. To do this, your dog must complete Introduction Training.

Introduction Training

It is best to find a couple of dogs and owners who you know and trust to be comfortable, safe, and confident around other dogs. Before training, take your dog out to a private area and play with them; this will reduce anxious energy and allow your dog to be more focused.

I like to use the positve reinforcement method when training dogs. For this, you will need some training treats, a correction collar, and a positive attitude.

The Walk Across

First, you need to get your dog into a calm, submissive posture. The best way to do this is to put on the correction collar, and a short leash. Standing in a semi-public area, have your puppy sit down next to you, and keep the leash taught enough so that your dog’s head is held level. Now it is time to have another dog walk across your dog’s field of vision. They should be at least 10 feet away. As soon as your dog starts to act anxious, give a quick and firm tug on the leash, and use a consistent negative command such as "shhhh" or "stop."   As soon as your dog returns to the calm and submissive state, positively reinforce the behavior by giving it a treat and lavish praise. Repeat this corrective process of negative command, leash tug, and positive reinforcement until the dog can cross your dog ‘s field of vision without barking or becomming anxious.

If your dog stands and or pulls on the leash, immediately give a tug, and give them a command to sit (only once). If he doesn’t sit immediately, give another tug on the leash but do not repeat the command. If he still does not sit and return to a calm and sumbissive state, aggresively and firmly (but not angrily, act as though you expect and will not tolerate the behavior, but remain calm)  place the puppy into the seated position. Do no reward the puppy until it remains seated and in a calm state.

On the off chance that your dog immediately submits to the other dog, possibly turning over on its back, just stand there calmly. Eventually both dogs will assume their natural roles in the realtionship, and everything will be fine.

Up Close Introductions

Now it is time to have your dog directly interact with another dog. Some dogs are (and specific breeds) are more protective of their territory and owner thans others. It is important to understand if your dog’s barking is protective, and it will be a bit more difficult tp train them not to bark in this situation.

Once again, have your dog seated and in a calm submissive state. Leave the corrective collar and leash on for now. The first test will be to introduce the new dog while it is also restrained by a leash and controlled by its’ owner. Using the same techinque as before, use the negative command as well as the corrective collar and leash to distract your dog and return it to a seated, calm, and submissive state, and then positvely reinforce the behavior.

If your dog is acting in a protective manner, it is quite possible he or she will stand up and aggressively tug, growl, and bark at the other dog. It is important not to over react, and certainly do not reprimand your dog by smacking it. This will only teach your dog that violence is the proper response to agressive behavior. If your dog does not repsond to the negative command and leash tug, you must establish yourself as the dominant (alpha) member of the pack. Instead of using the leash, grab your dogs collar and forcefully restrain your dog and place it in a laid down position. If he tries to get up, escape, or continues barking, continue holding him in the down position and repeat the negative command. Do not allow the dog to get up and continue the behavior before it reachesa calm submissive state. If your dog is signficantly larger than you, it is ok to place the dog in a submission hold by wrapping your arms around the neck and then placing your legs around its waist (infront of the back legs so as not to injur them) and then pulling the dog onto it’s back on top of you. This is an extreme submissive position for a dog as it will not be able to move; be sure you are not choking your dog, you are only controling its movement by holding it around the neck. Hold the dog there until it returns to a calm, submissive state, then reward him.

Once your dog no longer shows any kind of anxious or agressive behavior toward the other dog, it is ok to let them off of the leash and they can begin to socialize normally.

Socializing In A More Natural Environment

Now that you know your dog is comfortable and confident around other dogs (or you knew without the introduction training), it is time to socialize them. Remember, the more social time your dog has to socialize, the less likely he is to bark at other dogs. In fact, he’ll probably display little to no inappropriate barking behavior.

The best social time your dog can have is spending time actively working and playing with you. Taking your dog on a run, or to the park, or outside and playing a good 30 – 45 minutes of fetch are great ways for your dog to get it’s social time, as well as to get proper exercise.

Spending time training your dog is also a great way for your dog to socialize. A key thing to note is that the most important aspect of your dog’s life is to serve you and make you happy. I know this doesn’t make much sense from a human perspective, but it is absolutely the case with your dog (assuming you have established yourself as the pack leader).

That said, I really recommend the SitStayFetch method of dog training. It teaches you the the latest, most humane and effective training techniques of any book I have ever read. I have worked out a deal with Daniel Steven’s, the books author, which will give you a 6 day mini-course which is comprimised with information from the more detailed system.

Canine Socialization

Of course, I am a realist, and I know that most of us are very busy and may not be able to spend the time with our dogs that they deserve every signle day. Here are some suggestions for allowing your dog to socialize within your busy schedule.

1. Hire the neighbor’s kid to come over and play with your dog each day when they get home from school.
2. Use a professional dog walking service
3. This is the best, and I use it with my dog. Send your dog to doggie play group. To find a group in your area, just open up your favorite search engine and type in dog playgroup and your city name. For instance dog playgroup Los Angeles, CA.

Related Articles

- Stop Dog Barking – Why Dogs Bark and How To Train Them To Stop Barking
- Babies and Dogs: How Best to Introduce a Baby to a Dog 
- How To Train A Puppy (Older Dogs Too): The Positive Reinforcement Dog Training Method
- Stop Coprophagia (Poop Eating)
- How To Identify and Cure Your Dogs Separation Anxiety
- The Ultimate Guide To Dog Health – Answers To Dog Health Questions, Problems, And Symptoms

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Preparing your dog:

Preparing your dog for the baby’s arrival in advance is one of the best ways to help avoid friction and jealousy between your baby and your dog. Your dog is used to your attention and pampering, some jealousy will naturally surface when your new baby becomes the center of attention. Taking some precautions, a few minutes of quality time and some extra treats can go a long way! Be sure to:
• Take your dog to your local Veterinarian for a complete checkup a few months before the baby arrives.
• Worms and parasites can be harmful to your baby so be sure to worm your dog before the baby arrives and at the normal intervals to keep on top of this problem. If your dog is not spayed or neutered, this is also the time to get it done.
• Encourage friends with infants to visit your home to accustom your pet to babies. Supervise all pet and infant interactions.
• Allow your dog to explore the baby’s sleeping, diaper changing areas, and related items such as baby powder, lotions, and diapers to become familiar with the new smells and objects. Apply baby lotion or powder to your hands, for example, and allow your dog to sniff the new smell. Dogs rely on their sense of smell, so familiarity with the new baby smells will help him or her recognize the baby as a part of the family. If possible, allow your dog to smell clothing that your baby has used before you bring the baby home.
• Accustom your pet to baby-related noises months before the baby is expected. For example, play recordings of a baby crying (there are CDs out now for this exact training purpose – (see www.soundtherapy4pets.com/ for CDs with baby noises), turn on the mechanical infant swing, and use the rocking chair. Make these positive experiences for your pet by offering a treat or playtime.
• Do not allow your dog to sleep on the baby’s furniture or play with the baby’s toys. Your dog should know that the furniture is not for him or her and should treat it as such. Provide toys for the dog that do not resemble baby toys. A dog may take the toy from the baby’s hand and unintentionally injure the infant.
• If the baby’s room will be off-limits to your pet, install a sturdy barrier such as a removable gate (available at pet or baby supply stores) or, for jumpers, even a screen door. Because these barriers still allow your dog to see and hear what’s happening in the room, your dog will feel less isolated from the family and more comfortable with the new baby noises.
• Use a baby doll to help your pet get used to the real thing. Carry around a swaddled baby doll, take the doll in the stroller when you walk your dog, and use the doll to get your pet used to routine baby activities, such as bathing and diaper changing.
• Finally and very importantly, be sure that your dog knows that you and your family are alpha over him or her – this is crucial to ensure you can reprimand your dog should any jealous signs show when the baby is brought home.

Introducing your dog to your infant:

The actual introduction of your dog to your newborn baby is of utmost importance and the first few meetings can often dictate how your dog responds to your baby in an ongoing basis. For this reason, it is crucial to undertake the introduction process slowly and properly. Tips for the first meeting include:
• When the baby comes home, another person should hold the baby while you greet your dog. Your dog has missed you and it is important to pay attention to him or her when you first get home.
• Greet your dog happily and bring him or her a new toy as a gift to associate the baby with something positive. After your dog’s excitement about your homecoming has dissipated you should start introducing your baby to the dog.
• If you are unsure of you dog’s behavior, leash or restrain him or her during the introduction. Talk to your dog, pet and encourage him or her to get a good look and sniff the baby’s hands and feet. Do not force a reluctant dog by pushing the infant in front of the pet. Allow the pet to explore the new smells at their own pace. Never leave your baby unsupervised with your pet. An infant is incapable of pushing the animal away and your dog may inadvertently smother the child. The actions of a baby may scare your dog and cause it to bite in self-defense. If your dog reacts aggressively, put him or her in another room until it is calm and try the introduction again.
• After the initial greeting, you can bring your pet with you to sit next to the baby; reward your pet with treats for appropriate behavior. Remember, you want your pet to view associating with the baby as a positive experience. Again, to prevent anxiety or injury, never force your pet to get near the baby, and always supervise any interaction.
• Life will no doubt be hectic caring for your new baby, but try to maintain regular routines as much as possible to help your pet adjust. And be sure to spend one-on-one quality time with your pet each day—it may help relax you, too. With proper training, supervision, and adjustments, you, your new baby, and your pet should be able to live together safely and happily as one (now larger) family.

For more information on dog training techniques and how to deal with problem dog behavior (like accustoming your dog to children), check out SitStayFetch. It’s the complete manual for dog ownership and is designed to fast-track your dog’s learning.

You can visit the SitStayFetch site by clicking on the link below

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It’s widely accepted among the vast majority of dog training experts that the most effective and humane way to train your dog is through a process called:

This method is in direct contrast to some of the now-outdated but once-popular techniques for dog training, some of which were frankly abhorrent: physical pain and intimidation (such as hanging an aggressive dog up by her collar), or inhumane methods of aversion therapy (such as shock collars for barking).

Positive reinforcement works with your dog. Her natural instinct is to please you – the theory of positive reinforcement recognizes that lessons are more meaningful for dogs, and tend to "stick" more, when a dog is able to figure out what you’re asking under her own steam (as opposed to, say, learning "down" by being forced repeatedly into a prone position, while the word "down" is repeated at intervals). When you use positive reinforcement training, you’re allowing her the time and the opportunity to use her own brain.

Some ways for you to facilitate the training process:
- Use meaningful rewards. Dogs get bored pretty quickly with a routine pat on the head and a “good girl” (and, in fact, most dogs don’t even like being patted on the head – watch their expressions and notice how most will balk or shy away when a hand descends towards their head). To keep the quality of your dog’s learning at a high standard, use tempting incentives for good behavior. Food treats and physical affection are what dog trainers refer to as “primary incentives” – in other words, they’re both significant rewards that most dogs respond powerfully and reliably to.
- Use the right timing. When your dog obeys a command, you must mark the behavior that you’re going to reward so that, when she gets that treat in her mouth, she understands exactly what behavior it was that earned her the reward. Some people use a clicker for this: a small metal sound-making device, which emits a distinct “click” when pressed. The clicker is clicked at the exact moment that a dog performs the desired behavior (so, if asking a dog to sit, you’d click the clicker just as the dog’s bottom hits the ground). You can also use your voice to mark desired behavior: just saying “Yes!” in a happy, excited tone of voice will work perfectly. Make sure that you give her the treat after the marker – and remember to use the marker consistently. If you only say “Yes!” or use the clicker sometimes, it won’t have any significance to your dog when you do do it; she needs the opportunity to learn what that marker means (i.e., that she’s done something right whenever she hears the marker, and a treat will be forthcoming very shortly). So be consistent with your marker.
- Be consistent with your training commands, too. When you’re teaching a dog a command, you must decide ahead of time on the verbal cue you’re going to be giving her, and then stick to it. So, when training your dog to not jump up on you, you wouldn’t ask her to “get off”, “get down”, and “stop jumping”, because that would just confuse her; you’d pick one phrase, such as “No jump”, and stick with it. Even the smartest dogs don’t understand English – they need to learn, through consistent repetition, the actions associated with a particular phrase. Her rate of obedience will be much better if you choose one particular phrase and use it every time you wish her to enact a certain behavior for you.

 How to reward your dog meaningfully
All dogs have their favorite treats and preferred demonstrations of physical affection. Some dogs will do backflips for a dried liver snippet; other dogs just aren’t ‘chow hounds’ (big eaters) and prefer to be rewarded through a game with a cherished toy, or through some physical affection from you.

You’ll probably already have a fair idea of how much she enjoys being touched and played with – each dog has a distinct level of energy and demonstrativeness, just like humans do.

The best ways to stroke your dog: most dogs really like having the base of the tail (the lowest part of their back, just before the tail starts) scratched gently; having their chests rubbed or scratched (right between the forelegs) is usually a winner, too. You can also target the ears: gently rub the ear flap between your thumb and finger, or scratch gently at the base.

As far as food is concerned, it’s not hard to figure out what your dog likes: just experiment with different food treats until you find one that she really goes nuts for. When it comes to food, trainers have noted an interesting thing: dogs actually respond most reliably to training commands when they receive treats sporadically, instead of predictably. Intermittent treating seems to keep dogs on their toes, and more interested in what might be on offer – it prevents them from growing tired of the food rewards, and from making a conscious decision to forego a treat.

 How to correct your dog meaningfully
The great thing about positive reinforcement training is that it doesn’t require you to do anything that might go against the grain. You won’t be called upon to put any complex, weighty correctional theories into practice, or be required to undertake any harsh punitive measures.

When it comes to positive reinforcement training, all you have to do is ignore the behavior that you don’t wish to see repeated. Not getting any attention (because you’re deliberately ignoring her) is enough to make just about any dog pretty miserable, and thus is a powerful correctional tool.

Contemporary belief in dog training states that we should simply ignore incorrect responses to a training command – that, with no reinforcement from us (yes, even negative attention – like verbal corrections – counts as reinforcement: to some dogs, negative attention is better than no attention at all), the dog will stop the behavior of her own accord.

The bigger the fuss you make over her when she does get it right, the clearer the connection will be between a particular behavior(s) eliciting no response at all, but other behaviors (the right response) eliciting massive amounts of positive attention from you.

Recommended Reading
Hopefully this newsletter’s given you a good basic insight into the more helpful attitudes and techniques to use when training your dog. However, the subject remains pretty complex, and it’s a good idea to learn as much about effective training techniques as possible.

One excellent resource for dog training is SitStayFetch: the ultimate training and knowledge database for dog owners. With a focus on preventing and dealing with problem behaviors, as well as obedience work and ‘tricks’, SitStayFetch covers a vast variety of topics in minute detail – all round, an invaluable manual for dog owners everywhere.

You can check out SitStayFetch by clicking on the link below:
 

Related Articles

- Train A Dog To Stop Barking
- Stop Coprophagia (Poop Eating)
- How To Identify and Cure Your Dogs Separation Anxiety
- The Ultimate Guide To Dog Health – Answers To Dog Health Questions, Problems, And Symptoms

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Why Dogs Bark

Some owners seem to want their dogs to stop barking, period: a good dog is a quiet dog, and the only time that barking’s permitted is when there’s a man in a black balaclava and stripy prison outfit, clutching a haversack marked ‘Swag’, clambering in through your bedroom window.

Dogs don’t see barking in quite the same light. Your dog has a voice, just like you do, and she uses it just how you do too: to communicate something to the people she cares about.

I don’t think that barking is necessarily a bad thing – in fact, I think it’s encouraging that my dog wants to “talk” to me, enough so that I can overlook the stentorian qualities of his voice (which, in enclosed spaces, is positively overpowering) in favor of his desire to communicate with me. It’s the thought that counts (even though I feel better-equipped to stand by this sanctimonious belief when my ears are sheltered safely behind industrial-quality ear-plugs).

Unfortunately, the language barrier between dogs and humans is pretty well impermeable, which means it’s up to us to use the context, the body language of our dogs, and the circumstances of the vocalization to parse meaning from a volley of barks.

So why do dogs bark? It’s not easy to say (it’s like trying to answer the question, “Why do humans talk?” in so many words). Let’s start off by saying that dogs bark for many different reasons.

A lot of it depends on the breed: some dogs were bred to bark only when a threat is perceived (this is true of guarding breeds in particular, like Rottweilers, Dobermans, and German Shepherds); some were bred to use their voices as a tool of sorts, to assist their owners in pursuit of a common goal (sporting breeds such as Beagles and Bloodhounds, trained to ‘bay’ when they scent the quarry), and some dogs just like to hear themselves talk (take just about any of the toy breeds as an example of a readily-articulate dog!).

However, all breed specificities cast aside, there are some circumstances where just about any dog will give voice:

If your dog is barking for any of these reasons, it’s not really realistic for you to try to stop her: after all, she’s a dog, and it’s the nature of all dogs to bark at certain times and in certain situations. Presumably you were aware of this when you adopted your friend (and, if total silence was high on your list of priorities, you’d have bought a pet rock, right?).

Of course, there are times when barking isn’t only unwarranted, it’s downright undesirable. Some dogs can use their voices as a means of manipulation.

My goal is to teach you the most effective and humane methods of training your dog or puppy. Please take a moment and sign-up for our information packed newsletter.

Take this situation as an example:

You’re lying on the couch reading a book. Your dog awakes from a nap and decides it’s time for a game. She picks up her ball, comes over, and drops it in your lap. You ignore her and keep on reading. After a second of puzzled silence, she nudges your hand with her nose and barks once, loudly. You look over at her – she assumes the ‘play-bow’ position (elbows near the floor, bottom in the air, tail waving) and pants enticingly at you. You return to your book. She barks again, loudly – and, when no response is elicited, barks again. And this time, she keeps it up. After a minute or so of this, sighing, you put down your book (peace and quiet is evidently not going to be a component of your evening, after all), pick up the ball, and take her outside for a game of fetch. She stops barking immediately.

I’m sure you know that respect is an essential part of your relationship with your dog. You respect her, which you demonstrate by taking good care of her regardless of the convenience of doing so, feeding her nutritious and tasty food, and showing your affection for her in ways that she understands and enjoys.

In order for her to be worthy of your respect, she has to respect you, too. Something that many kind-hearted souls struggle to come to terms with is that dog ownership is not about equality: it’s about you being the boss, and her being the pet. Dogs are not children; they are most comfortable and best-behaved when they know that you are in charge. A dog has to respect your leadership to be a happy, well-adjusted, and well-behaved pet.

In the situation above, there was no respect being shown by the dog. She wasn’t inviting her owner to play; she was harassing her owner to play. In fact, I’d even say bullying. And even worse, the behavior was being reinforced by the owner’s capitulation – effectively, giving in to this behavior taught her that to get what she wants, she has to make a noise – and she has to keep it up until her goal is achieved.

Affection and play-times are obviously necessary aspects of life with a dog, but they have to be doled out on your own terms. If she learns that she can get what she wants by barking, then your house is going to become a Noise Pollution Zone (and this is not going to endear you to your neighbors, either).

To prevent this bullying behavior in your dog from assuming a familiar role in her repertoire of communications, you have to prove to her that you’re not the kind of person that can be manipulated so easily. It’s simple to do this: all you have to do is ignore her. I’m not talking about passive ignorance, where you pay her no attention and simply continue with whatever it was you were doing – you need to take more of an active role. This means conveying to her through your body language that she is not worthy of your attention when she acts in such an undesirable manner.

The absolute best and most effective thing for you to do in this case is to give her the cold shoulder. When she starts trying to ‘bark you’ into doing something for her, turn your back on her straight away. Get up, avert your eyes and face, and turn around so your back is towards her. Don’t look at her, and don’t talk to her – not even a “no”.

She’ll probably be confused by this, and will likely bark harder. This is particularly true if you’ve given in to her bully-barking in the past – the more times you’ve reinforced the behavior, the more persistent she’s going to be. In fact, the barking will almost certainly get a lot worse before it gets better – after all, it’s worked for her the past, so it’s understandable that she’ll expect it to work again.

As in all aspects of dog training, consistency is very important. You must ensure that you don’t change your mind halfway through and give in to what she wants – because by doing so, you’re teaching her to be really, really persistent (“OK, so I just need to bark for ten minutes instead of five to get a walk,” is the message she’ll get).

Stop Dog Barking

But what can you do in other situations where bullying isn’t an issue and you just want her to stop the racket? If you want to get the message across that you’d like her to cease fire and be quiet, the most effective thing you can do is to use your hands.

No, I’m not talking about hitting her: this is a perfectly humane, impact- and pain-free method of conveying that what you require right now is peace and quiet.

Here’s what you do: when she’s barking, give her a second to ‘get it out of her system’ (it’s a lot kinder, and a lot more effective, to give her a chance – however brief – to express herself before asking her to be quiet). If she doesn’t calm down under her own steam, reach out and clasp her muzzle gently, but firmly, in your hand. She’ll try to shake you off, or back away, so you can place your other hand on her collar to give you greater control.

This method is useful for two reasons: firstly, it effectively silences the barking (since no dog, no matter how loud, can bark with her mouth shut!). Secondly, it reinforces your authority: you’re showing her through direct physical action that you’re a benevolent but firm leader who will brook no nonsense, and who won’t balk when it comes to enforcing your guidance.

Hold onto her muzzle and collar until she’s stopped trying to break free: only when she calms down and stops wriggling does it mean that she’s accepted your authority. When she’s still, hold on for one or two more seconds, then let her go and praise her.

In addition to this short-term fix, there are also a few things you can to do to reduce your dog’s need to bark in the first place.

The number-one cause for unwanted barking (as in, the kind of barking that’s repetitive and is directed at nothing) is nervous, agitated energy – the kind she gets from not getting enough exercise. Most dogs function best with one and a half hours’ exercise every day, which is a considerable time commitment for you. Of course, this varies from dog to dog, depending on factors like breed, age, and general level of health. You may think that your dog is getting as much exercise as she needs, or at least as much as you can possibly afford to give her – but if her barking is coupled with an agitated demeanor (fidgeting, perhaps acting more aggressively than you’d expect or want, restlessness, destructive behavior) then she almost definitely needs more.

Fortunately, the fix for this problem is pretty simple: you’ll just have to exercise her more. Try getting up a half-hour earlier in the morning – it’ll make a big difference. If this is absolutely impossible, consider hiring someone to walk her in the mornings and/or evenings. And if this is impossible too, then you’ll just have to resign yourself to having a loud, frustrated, and agitated dog (although whether you can resign her to this state remains to be seen).

The second most common cause of excessive vocalization in dogs is too much ‘alone time’. Dogs are social animals: they need lots of attention, lots of interaction, and lots of communication. Without these things, they become anxious and on edge. If you’re at home with your dog, you’re not paying attention to her, and she’s spending a lot of time barking at what appears to be nothing, she’s probably bored and lonely and would benefit from a healthy dose of affection and attention.

Our Newsletter

If you’d like more information on unwanted behaviors that your dog’s exhibiting, you’ll probably be interested in taking a look at our newsletter. The information in the newsletter is sent to you via email, and is written in similar fashion as this article. Of course, I will be making product recommendations (read – advertising), but I promise each volume of the newsletter will contain lots of valuable content, and the ads will not be obtrusive.

Related Articles

- Successful training for your dog or puppy: the Positive Reinforcement Method
- Stop Coprophagia (Poop Eating)
- How To Identify and Cure Your Dogs Separation Anxiety
- The Ultimate Guide To Dog Health – Answers To Dog Health Questions, Problems, And Symptoms 

 What Is It?
SitStayFetch presents an unusually detailed and thorough look at how to both prevent and deal with the more common problem behaviors exhibited by dogs. As the owner of a moderately troublesome mutt myself, I’ve spent a fair amount of time searching the Net for reliable resources on this topic, and I have to say that the level of knowledge and detail contained within the pages of this compendium is unusually exacting for an online book.

Not only that, but – again, unusually for this medium – the information at hand is actually (gasp!) reliable. Yes, that’s right – this one’s a whole new kettle of fish. Written by a seasoned dog trainer, you can relax in the knowledge that all the tips and advice included are tried and true, and come from Stevens’ real-life experiences as a professional dog trainer.

What’s Covered?
There’s a pretty impressive range of information packed into this guide. It’s not just the problem behaviors that are covered: the book starts off with new-owner advice (how to choose a puppy/dog, the best places to get one from, breed information, puppy/dog-proofing your home, the first vet visit, housetraining, etc) and then moves on to the more advanced stuff: behavioral problems (such as aggression, dominance, chewing, digging, excessive barking, separation anxiety, to name a few), intermediate-level obedience commands, health-related dog problems (allergies, cat/dog coexistence, fleas, heatstroke, and so on), and advanced commands and tricks.

Particularly Good Parts
In addition to the contents listed above, there’s also a pretty impressive section on dog whispering, which – in case you haven’t heard of it already – is a method of dog training based on a philosophy of clear communication and mutual respect. It’s been popularized in recent years by Cesar Millan (“The Dog Whisperer”), and is becoming increasingly well-known as an alternative and humane method for disciplining and training your dog. SitStayFetch has dedicated an entire section to dog whispering: Daniel Stevens explains the background of the technique, how to utilize voice and body language to your best advantage, and how to use the technique to calmly, assertively, and effectively correct and train your dog. Step-by-set instructions are included for the common commands (sit, down, come, stay, quiet, etc).

It makes for some pretty interesting reading – and, after trying out the basics on my own recalcitrant pooch, I was amazed at how effective the techniques suggested are. Highly recommended!

I Love Freebies (Who Doesn’t?)
There’s just something about getting something for nothing. And, although my magpie-like acquisitiveness may have led me into less-than-productive purchases in the past, in this particular case I’m happy to report that SitStayFetch hasn’t let me down: the freebies included with this book are not only numerous, they’re actually useful(wow!)

The book itself costs $37. For this price, you get a complete and detailed manual on training your dog, preventing and handling behavioral problems, and a whole bunch of general-knowledge tips and advice.

You also get a handful of practical freebies: four bonus books, dealing respectively with advanced housetraining how-to’s and troubleshooting (including both the crate- and paper-training methods); a detailed study on resolving canine aggression; how to effectively groom your dog (including information on coat care for specific breeds, dental care, and nail-clipping how-to’s); and finally, how to begin training your dog for security work.

Another particularly useful freebie: a personalized consultation with a member of the Kingdom of Pets team. If you’ve got an issue with your dog that you’d like some individual attention on, you can flick them a quick email and receive a personalized, thorough reply packed with expert advice and practical tips.

SitStayFetch: A Thumbnail Sketch
Altogether, I’m pretty impressed with this package. I’ve owned dogs on and off my whole life, starting from when I was ten – I would have thought that I was better-prepared than most to handle the quirks and caprices of my canine friends.

But since reading this book, I think my pre-SitStayFetch self was (embarrassingly) perhaps a trifle more complacent than knowledgeable – I’ve learned more since reading this manual than I’ve picked up in a near-lifetime’s worth of contact with dogs (do you know how to stop your dog from tugging on the leash, without using a check-chain? Well, I do – but until I got my hands on a copy of this book, I certainly didn’t!)

Several of the training techniques present a refreshingly common-sense, down-to-earth approach to dog training; others require a little more effort (take dog whispering as an example) but yield some pretty dramatic results. I liked the way that more than one training technique is detailed, to allow the reader to pick and choose the techniques that best suit themselves and their individual dogs.

I have no qualms in recommending this package to anyone who owns, or is thinking about owning, a dog. You don’t need to have a “problem pet” for the manual to be of assistance: there’s information included that’ll be useful to any and all dog owners.

In a nutshell: highly recommended.

-Steve Warshaw

P.S.

I have arranged a special Free 6 day mini-course with Sit Stay Fetch for my readers.

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WHAT IS A PARASITE?

External parasites are pretty common among dogs. A parasite is an organism that lives off the resources your dog has to offer: namely, fresh blood (which most parasites drink) and a warm place to stay (in and on the skin and fur).

What are the common parasites that might affect my dog?
There are a wide range of parasites that affect dogs:

- Fleas 
- Ticks
- Mites
  – Demodex Mites (demodectic mange) 
  – Sarcoptic Mites (sarcoptic mange, scabies)
- Lice

All of these parasites cause adverse reactions in your dog: typically, itching and inflamed skin, a dull coat, and bald spots. In advanced cases, your dog may develop anemia (blood loss) and become generally debilitated (particularly if he or she is very young, very old, or suffering from another condition).

In addition to this, many parasites convey secondary and internal parasites to your dog – for example, fleas usually carry the common tapeworm (which causes constipation and flatulence), and ticks can cause a variety of much more serious problems like Lyme’s disease and paralysis.

In this article, we’re going to be looking at fleas: what they are, how to tell if your dog’s affected, and how to get rid of them.

A CLOSER LOOK AT FLEAS

Fleas are without question the number-one most common external parasite affecting dogs. They’re small, jumping insects that are light brown in color, although humans generally can’t see them – they move much too quickly for that!

Fleas live off your dog’s blood. The life cycle of a flea moves very rapidly from stage one (egg) to stage four (adult flea), which means they’re capable of multiplying with staggering rapidity.

An adult flea lays hundreds of eggs per day. Each egg will then become an adult flea, which lay hundreds more eggs of its own. One flea becomes a major problem very quickly!

HOW TO TELL IF YOUR DOG HAS FLEAS

The symptoms of a flea infestation are unmistakable.
A dog with a flea infestation will scratch almost constantly, often at areas that fleas seem to favor: the ears, the base of the tail, the belly, and the stifle (the webbing of soft skin between the thigh and the abdomen).

It’s actually the saliva of the flea that causes the irritation, not the bite itself, and some dogs have a genuine allergy to this saliva (as opposed to a standard irritation). Dogs with allergies suffer much more significant negative reactions to a flea infestation, and usually develop “hot spots”.

These hot spots are areas of sore, inflamed, flaking, bleeding, and infected skin, caused by the flea saliva and your dog’s own reaction to it. Bald patches will sometimes develop too, from repeated scratching and ongoing inflammation.

If you think your dog has fleas, you can confirm your suspicions by taking a closer look at his skin: you probably won’t be able to see the fleas themselves, but you should be able to see what looks like ground pepper (a thin sprinkling of fine black grains) on his skin. This is flea dirt (poop).

Groomax? Flea Combs with Soft Grip Handles

If you groom him with a flea comb (which is like a fine-tooth comb), try wiping it on a paper towel: if red blotches show up on the towel, you know that your dog has fleas (on a white background like a paper towel, flea poop shows up red: since fleas subsist on blood, their poop is colored accordingly).

TREATMENT FOR FLEAS

Because fleas only spend a small amount of time actually on your dog, and the rest of their time leaping through your house laying eggs and feeding on human blood, it’s not enough to just treat the dog: you also have to target his bedding, the entire house, all human bedding, and the yard (yes, fleas lay eggs all through the yard, too. Even if it’s cold outside, you’re not necessarily off the hook: cold weather doesn’t kill flea eggs, it just puts them into a state of hibernation. The eggs will hatch as soon as it gets warm enough outside.)

You’ll need a broad-spectrum treatment which kills not only the adult fleas (which are the ones that bite), but also any developing fleas, and the eggs.

PREVENTION IS THE BEST (AND THE EASIEST!)

Prevention is definitely the best cure – you should keep your dog’s flea treatments up to date with the use of a calendar, and use a treatment that’s prescribed by the vet. Off-the-shelf treatments aren’t recommended, since different dogs require different strengths depending on their size, age, and activity levels. A particular benefit of prescribed flea treatment is that most are also designed to prevent other parasites (like mites, ticks, and heartworm) from affecting your dog.

For the best pure flea, tick, and mosquito prevention you can get without a veterinary perscription, we recommend K9-Advantix (Ain’t No Bugs on Me)

6 Month Supply
Advantix K9 Flea Killer Plus, Teal,11-20 lbs. 6 Month Supply
Advantix K9 Flea Killer Plus, Red,21-55 lbs. 6 Month Supply
Advantix K9 Flea Killer Plus, Blue,Over 55 lbs. 6 Month Supply

 12 month Supply
Advantix K9 Flea Killer Plus, Teal, 11-20lbs.12 Month Supply
Advantix K9 Flea Killer Plus, Red, 21-55lbs. 12 Month Supply
Advantix K9 Flea Killer Plus, Blue, Over 55lbs. 12 Month Supply

FOR AN EXISTING INFESTATION 

If your dog already has fleas, you have two options:

- You can ‘bomb’ the house and yard with a flea-pesticide. These come as foggers (which coat each room, and the yard, in a fine mist of pesticide) and sprays (which are applied manually to each surface throughout the house and yard), and although they’re very effective in killing fleas and eggs, there’s one major drawback: they’re highly toxic to humans, dogs, and the environment. Depending on your priorities, this is probably the quickest solution to a flea problem (and will effectively wipe out the eggs, too) but if you have anyone in the house with allergies or a health condition – including pets! – you might want to think again.

- Many people prefer a more health-friendly alternative is to target the dog with a topical anti-flea solution prescribed by the vet (like Advantage or Revolution), and to rigorously clean the house on a regular basis until the flea problem has gone. This means vacuuming each room thoroughly each day – put a flea collar in with the vacuum bag to kill any fleas that get sucked up – and wash all human and dog bedding in hot water as often as you can (once every day or every two days is recommended). You’ll be able to tell when the problem’s gone because your dog won’t be scratching, and his coat will be clear of flea dirt when you inspect it.

My favorite solution (links below) is to use a combination of Capstar which is a tablet you give your dog which will kill all of the live fleas on your dog within 8 hours, combined with Sentinel which is  a flea preventative that prevents flea larvae from reaching maturing. It also has the added bennefit of preventing heartworm as well as treating hookworm, whipworm, and roundworm. Combined with proper cleansing using a good shampoo such as Earthbath Tea Tree Oil, your dog should be free from fleas in no time. Sentinel requires your dog be tested for existing heartworms by your veterinarian and thus requires a perscription. You may buy Capstar using the link below:

WHAT NOT TO DO ABOUT FLEAS

- Don’t use multiple products on your dog – it’ll make him sick, since you’ll be overloading his system with toxins.
- Don’t forget to treat all the animals in the house at the same time: cat and dog fleas are interchangeable, and if one animal has fleas, they all will have them, even if some are not displaying the symptoms.
- Flea collars are no longer recommended as a safe option for flea prevention, since the collars are highly toxic – vets have realized that placing a toxic material directly against your pet’s skin for long periods of time (flea collars have to be worn 24/7 to be effective) is detrimental to your dog’s health.

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON PARASITES AND THEIR TREATMENT…

Fleas are just one of the many, many types of parasites that affect your dog. To find out more about the complete prevention and treatment of all types of parasites (external and internal), as well as a comprehensive guide to all aspects of dog health, take a look at The Ultimate Guide to Dog Health.

This book is an invaluable resource for the responsible dog owner, and will help you to ensure that your dog remains happy and healthy – just the way you want him to be! 

 You can visit The Ultimate Guide to Dog Health by clicking on the link below:
http://www.kingdomofpets.com/ 

Or:

Read my review of The Ultimate Guide To Dog Health 

Learn Exactly How To Help Your Dog From Through Separation Anxiety

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Thanks to this powerful system, thousands of dog owners have successfully solved their dogs digging and other behavioral problems.

Learn Exactly How To Stop
Your Dog From Digging Up The Yard

From: Steve Warshaw

Is Your Dog’s Destructive Digging Ruining Yard?

Here are some of the more common reasons that a dog will dig:

• Lack of exercise. Digging is a good way for a hyped-up, under-exercised dog to burn off some of that nervous energy.
• Boredom. Bored dogs need a “job” to do, something rewarding and interesting, to help the time pass by.
• Digging is often the ideal solution for a bored dog: it gives him a sense of purpose, and distracts him from an otherwise-empty day.
• The need for broader horizons. Some dogs are just escape artists by nature – no matter how much exercise and attention they get, it’s nearly impossible to confine them. For a four-legged Houdini, it’s not the digging in itself that’s the reward, it’s the glorious unknown that exists beyond the fenceline.
• Separation anxiety. To a dog that’s seriously pining for your company, digging under those confining walls represents the most direct path to you. Separation anxiety is an unpleasant psychological issue relatively common among dogs

For whichever reason your dog digs, there is good news! Your dog is perfectly capable of learning not to digup your yard… It’s just going to take a little time and effort on on your part.

If you want to learn what it really takes to stop your dog’s behavior problems now, using the fastest and healthiest methods that exist – then you have to hear everything I’m going to share with you. It’s that important.

You’re about to learn comprehensive information on the following:

• fixing any dog behavior problem
• tips and secrets to use in your everyday dog obedience training
• specific commands and tricks to teach your dog
• the best way to select, buy and raise a new puppy or older dog 

Want Step by Step Plan for Teaching Your Dog To Fetch? Click Here

…and more great Dog Obedience Training Tricks

Click Here To Get Your Free 6 Day E-Course

Dear Friend,

You are probably making critical mistakes while training your dog and don’t even know it!

Many of the dog training products on the market just plain SUCK! Are you’re tired of advice for training your dog that just doesn’t work, or manuals that don’t have enough descriptions or pictures for you to understand them?

 Keep reading if you are ready to finally make a difference in your dogs quality of life, through proper obedience training!

 I’m so excited to show you the SitStayFetch Dog Obedience Training system. You’re about to discover amazing secrets for saving time and money by learning the best and easiest Dog Obedience Training methods, without wasting time using training techniques that don’t work!

 You’re going to save time, money, and aggravation. You’ll be able to avoid the mistakes and situations that have been blocking your dogs progress.

 It’s A Fact: Poor training techniques not only prevent your dog from being well behaved.

 They are also putting you at high risk of a less than satisfactory relationship with your dog. Not to mention the potential health benefits your dog loses by not being able to communicate with you.

 If you want to learn what it really takes to stop your dog’s behavior problems now, using the fastest and healthiest methods that exist – then you have to hear everything I’m going to share with you. It’s that important.

 You’re about to learn comprehensive information on the following: 

• fixing any dog behavior problem
• tips and secrets to use in your everyday dog obedience training
• specific commands and tricks to teach your dog
• the best way to select, buy and raise a new puppy or older dog.

  The best part about this information is that anyone use, it’s so easy!

 But Don’t Take if from me, just listen to what Cynthia Muir from New Zealand has to say: 

Get A FREE SitStayFetch 6 Day Course! This course covers selected training methods that are used in SitStayFetch and it is yours FREE with absolutely no obligation whatsoever… Click Here Now

Here’s A Small Sample Of What You will Learn:

	Need to stop your dog from trying to fight with other dogs? Learn the best ways to break up dog fights and prevent them from ever happening again.(page 84-86)
	Want to know how to curb your dog’s aggressiveness? Learn six powerful strategies for training aggressive dogs. (pages 60-72)
	Did you know that your dog may not know why you are trying to correct him? Learn how to make him understand. This will remove the frustration and rapidly increase the speed of your dog’s learning. (Page 37, plus further communication strategies provided throughout)
	All the secrets of professional dog trainers are revealed, and best of all are easy to apply! Stop wasting hundreds of dollars (chapters 103, 201, and 301)
	Does your dog require urgent dog house training? Learn the dog house training techniques you must know that get the fastest results, whether you keep your dog indoors or outdoors. (chapters 103, 203, 302 plus house training bonus book)
	Sick of having your dog race out the front door? Read my book and you’ll never have to worry about this again. (page 116)
	Got a dominant dog? We teach you how to deal with him. (chapters 201, 202, plus bonus book)
	Separation anxiety getting you both down? Find out about the best ways to make it go away. (pages 143-144 and Separation Anxiety case study: pages 145-146)
	Hate having your dog jump up on you? Learn six simple techniques to stop him jumping up on you ever again! (pages 141-142 and Jumping case study: pages 143)
	Neighbors getting annoyed with your pet’s constant barking? Maybe he doesn’t bark enough? Apply these advanced techniques so that your dog knows when and where it’s appropriate to bark. (pages 56, 86-89, 127-128)

 If you really truly want a healthy well trained dog who will LISTEN to you wherever you go… if you want to be respected by other dog owners as someone who takes great care of their dog… then there is no doubt in my mind this will work for you.

Best Wishes To You and Your Dog,

Steve Warshaw

 P.S.

Why haven’t you tried our Free 6 Day Course? Oh, I know. You needed the link again. Here it is:

Click Here Now